The future of solar energy is getting brighter and brighter with help from incredible advances currently underway in some of the nation’s leading laboratories.

In fact, a generation from now, solar energy technology is likely to reach levels of efficiency and flexibility that will make today’s products pale in comparison. For example, some researchers are using nanotechnology to experiment with materials that will allow almost any part of a building to contain photovoltaic materials capable of generating clean energy.

A handful of companies have even been working on orbiting solar energy arrays that could be capable of beaming the power they generate back to earth, reducing the need for land and other development hurdles.

With this in mind, a report from the International Business Times features some technological advances that will mark major milestones for the solar energy industry in their own right.

Specifically, scientists at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology have reportedly found a way to generate solar energy using chemicals comparable to those used by plants for photosynthesis – a method that could be far more efficient than current photovoltaic technology.

May 5, 2010 6:19 AM PDT by Martin LaMonica

CAMBRIDGE, Mass.–Scientists at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology have successfully coated paper with a solar cell, part of a suite of research projects aimed at energy breakthroughs. 

Susan Hockfield, MIT’s president, and Paolo Scaroni, CEO of Italian oil company Eni, on Tuesday officially dedicated the Eni-MIT Solar Frontiers Research Center. Eni invested $5 million into the center, which is also receiving a $2 million National Science Foundation grant, said Vladimir Bulovic, the center’s director. 

The printed solar cells, which Bulovic showed at a press conference Tuesday, are still in the research phase and are years from being commercialized. 

However, the technique, in which paper is coated with organic semiconductor material using a process similar to an inkjet printer, is a promising way to lower the weight of solar panels. “If you could use a staple gun to install a solar panel, there could be a lot of value,” Bulovic said.

Vladimir Bulovic, director of the Eni-MIT Solar Frontiers Research Center, holds a solar cell printed onto a piece of paper to spell MIT. This is the first paper solar cell, according to MIT and Eni. (Credit: Martin LaMonica/CNET)

The materials MIT researchers used are carbon-based dyes and the cells are about 1.5 percent to 2 percent efficient at converting sunlight to electricity. But any material could be used if it can be deposited at room temperature, Bulovic said. “Absolutely, the trick was coming up with ways to use paper,” he said. 

MIT professor Karen Gleason headed the research and has submitted a paper for scientific review but it has not yet been published. MIT and Eni said this is the first time a solar cell has been printed on paper. 

During the press conference, Scaroni said that Eni is funding the center because the company understands that hydrocarbons will eventually run out and believes that solar can be a replacement. At the same time, he said, current technologies are not sufficient. 

“We are not very active (in alternative energy) today because we don’t believe today’s technologies are the answer of our problems,” he said. 

Quantum dots
The paper solar cells are one of many avenues being pursued around nanoscale materials at the Eni-MIT Solar Frontiers Center. Layers of these materials could essentially be sprayed using different manufacturing techniques to make a thin-film solar cell on a plastic, paper, or metal foils. 

Silicon, the predominant material for solar cells, is durable and is made from abundant materials. Many companies sell or are developing thin-film solar cells, which are less efficient but are cheaper to manufacture. 

Posted by Chris van der Zwaal in Solar energy

Last spring (2009) I wrote my first article about building my own solar panels (just to be clear : for making electricity) . At the end of the day on December 31, 2009, I had finished installing my panels totalling about 400 Wp. So now its time for an update.

The Solar Cells

The installation is made up of 8 panels, 27.5 x 40 inches each. The panels are made with solar cells, size 6 x 6 inches. I estimate the power of the panels to be 50Wp (or slightly higher) each. These cells were new and unused, lying somewere on a shelf in a warehouse, almost forgotten. I got them pretty cheaply (around $ 0.62 per Wp), understandibly because the efficiency is only 9 %. And that, these days, is considered very low.

Picture of the Cells

Transmissivity of Glass

After my article from last Spring, I have done a lot of research: the transmissivity of the glass especially kept me busy because the transmissivity of ordinary glass was very poor. To be able to measure this transmissivity, I built a test panel. I made 2 “strings” of 12 Evergreen cells (by “string” I mean cells connected in series). The picture shows these 2 “strings”. If you look carefully, you can see 2 different pieces of glass in front of it.

 Without glass in front and in the sunlight, I connected each string to its own multimeter to measure its respective shortcut current. Of course, that gave different values (the multimeters as well as the strings are not equal). So by interchanging the multimeters, I got 2 measurements and averaging those 2 values gave me a pretty accurate figure of the difference. The next step was to put a piece of glass in front of only one of the strings and leave the other string without glass in front. I took a measurement and recorded it. Then I placed the glass in front of the other string and again recorded the measurements. I had to repeat these steps, but now with the multimeters interchanged. This way I got 4 measurements and by averaging these, I got a pretty good and accurate result about the influence of the light transmissivity of the glass on the shortcut current. Of course this does not measure the maximum power point of the cells, but I assumed that the result about the transmissivity will be the same. It would not be logical if it would be different. So now I was able to test the different sorts of small pieces of glass that I had gathered. In the end, I chose the most economical glass. Ordering it in a relatively large quantity of slightly more than 1000 square foot, I got it for a very acceptable price. It is 0.12 inches thick and it is tempered! The price: $ 1.90 per square foot. Of course I am not going to use it all for myself but I sell it to other DIY solarpanel builders. This way they can take advantage of my low price and also know they get tempered glass with a reasonable transmissivity. The ordinary glass measured below 80% compared to my tempered glass, which is about 90%. So now I have glass with a very acceptable transmissivity, it is tempered, and the price is pretty low! At that time I already had the 6 x 6 inch cells (they have a different size than the Evergreen cells requiring another size of glass) So part of the delivery of glass were about 40 pieces with the right size for my panels. The other 2 sizes are for Evergreen panels with 36 or 72 cells each.

And This Is What It Looks Like

The Installation Ready and Fixed to My House

On the night of December 31st, my solar panel installation was ready! The only thing to do was sit and wait for the sun, and I was lucky because the next day, the first day in the new year, it was a full sunny day. Being a day with not many daylight hours and a sun at its apex only 15 degrees above the horizon, my installation worked like it should. The first day maximum was 265 Watt of electricity “pouring” into the grid through the gridtied-inverter. The panels are almost exactly oriented to the south: 175 degrees on the (true) compass. So that is about as good as can be. The tilt of the panels is somewhat steeper than optimum for the whole year, which is around 32 degrees. I had mounted them at about 50 degrees. This is far better for the winter season as the sun is so low on the horizon. I have plans to alter the angle around April or May to accomodate for the higher apex of the sun during the summer. With my construction that will not be too complicated to do. You might be able to understand this when you look at the picture.

And This Is What It Looks Like

Some Figures and Measurements

The cells are a lot bigger than the Evergreen cells which are about 3 x 6 inches: they measure 6 x 6 inches, so they are twice the size. But as their efficiency is 9% (Evergreen cells: 14%) their output is not double, but around 55% higher. I calculated the Evergreens to generate 1.5 Wp each (placed behind the glass) so these cells must be 1.5Wp x 155% = 2.32Wp. I have 24 cells in a panel (size 27.5 x 40 inch). That gives 24 x 2,32Wp = 55,68 Wp per panel (for now I will consider them 50Wp each to have a conservative assumption). I now have 8 of those panels and they are all connected in series. They are feeding a Philips 500 gridtied-inverter (it is second hand and it is a predeccessor of the Stecagrid 500 commonly used in the Netherlands, being most presumably the same). So I have 8 x 55,68 = 445 Wp. For now I will consider it 400Wp.

Of course, I will not see this high output for some time to come, but as the sun starts to go higher above the horizon my output will also rise. That indeed is what is happening : on January 1st, I got a reading of 265 Watt, but as the days progressed (waiting each day for sunlight but most days were cloudy all day) the readings got higher indeed. So far my highest on Februari 3th was already 373 Watt !! And that is very promising.

The temperature of the cells probably was below 77 Fahrenheit (25 celsius) which is the temperature at which solar panels are tested and measured to give their WattPeakPower. With higher temperatures, this output decreases considerably (and of course at lower temps the output is higher). Roughly 1% per 4 degrees Fahrenheit (or 1% per 2 degrees Celsius). So at approximately 131 F ( 55 C ) the output is around 15 % lower. The temperature of a solar panel can go way above this temperature.

The reason that the sunlight is weaker when the sun is low on the horizon is that the light has to travel a much longer distance through the atmosphere and then a lot of energy is lost. One can calculate the comparison between several angles above the horizon. You simply compare the sinus of 15 degrees and the sinus of 20 degrees and then compare these two : sinus 20 / sinus 15 = 0.342 / 0.258. The funny thing is, and I did not expect this, the readings I got from 15 degrees (on Jan. 1st) and 20 degrees (on Jan. 28th ) are 345 Watt / 265 Watt. This is about the same ratio.

What I also did was measure the voltage and current coming out of the panels into the inverter. Multiply these figures and you get a very accurate figure about the Watts that the panels produce. Now compare this figure with how many Watts the inverter is “pouring” into the grid. Look at the picture below to see these measurements. It is a simple calculation to find that the efficiency of the inverter is about 95%, but it is not accurate as the powermeter that I use surely does not take into account any phase shift that will be there between current and voltage. I just have to assume that within certain limits it is correct, but those limits probably are “wide”.

 If I take my highest reading of 345 Watt and correct it for this 95% I get the power that the panels made at that moment : 363 Watt. I have high hopes that I will see readings of higher than 400 Watt and then I can be very content. It would mean that (after correcting for the inverter) the panels are well above 400 Watt. The power meter is a simple one. I bought 2 of them. I opened one of them to internally switch input and output. I thought that it would be nescesary because the current in this situation flows in the other direction through the powermeter. However, I found that the “un”modified powermeter worked just as well. Of course this does not mean that it applies to all other types of powermeters.

Inverter

Picture of the Voltage(87.1) and Amperes(3.02) (Input-Side of the Inverter) and Power (251)(Output-Side of the Inverter)

The Cost of My Panels

I have calculated that the cost of one panel is around $ 83.00 (at the present rate of 1.39 dollar to the euro). My aim has been to get a panel for € 1.20 per Wp. I express this in euros as the rate of the dollar is changing so often and I live in an euro environment. But this € 1.20 at present equals $ 1.68 per Wp. Well it seems that I have reached that goal. But I must say that I have been rather conservative with this aim to prevent disappointments. Nice thing about this is that I will probably even go below this aim! If and when my panels produce 400 Wp I will have reached my goal, but right now it is very likely that I might even go 10% higher. So my price per Wp will be below € 1.10 or $ 1.51 per Wp. In this situation, my panels are 55 Wp each. But I must honestly say that I did not take into account the extra cost I had for buying some extra tools. On the other hand , building more panels will reduce that influence. And that brings up the next chapter.

Plans for the Future

It is a lot of fun doing this project and I have started preparations for building another 8 panels. My final goal is to make 40 of them. As you can see on the picture, my present home will not be able to accommodate many more panels, so I am very glad that I am going to buy a new home with lots of space to place the panels on the ground in my far backyard .

Some more remarks.

The panels are made exactly according to the double glass principle that I described in my first article. For some more detailed info I have a second website: http://doctersnuggles2.come2me.nl

I had hoped to have my installation ready last summer but gathering and choosing the right materials took a lot of time. It was important to do and it was worth it. Hopefully it helps to make the panels last a lot of years and that in itself will hopefully take a long time to prove. The choice of the glass especially took a lot of time.

By selling cells and other important materials for building a solar panel, I got a lot of extra ideas from others, and that was one of my aims. I got in contact with quite a few do-it-yourselvers and we exchanged a lot of information. That also resulted in a forum for “do-it-yourselfers” but it is in the Dutch language. The fact that it is there indicates that there are enough others building solar panels.

Possible Improvements

Talking about different ways to build a solar panel, I can say that there are about 5 others developing/finding a way to use EVA lamination to completely seal the cells. This is also the material that is being used by most solar panel factories. Through my contacts I have been lucky enough to get some of this EVA. It is past its expiration date, but tests have shown that it still works fine. If they succeed in finding a simple way to apply/use it, then I will start using their method too for future panels. The efficiency of the panel will increase (according to some internet articles) if the air gap between the cell and the glass is removed and replaced by this lamination. As the air is not there anymore the lightrays will have less (strong) transitions (air into glass – glass into air – air into the cell). Also the reflecting between the front of the cell and the backside of the frontglass will be less. The efficiency of the panel in this way can rise from 90% up to 95% . Read also the comments about this in my first article.

The Testpanel

Posted by Chris van der Zwaal in Solar energy

Because I think that the price of a solar panel is still pretty high(in Europe), and because the stimulation from our government (in the Netherlands) is not so good (very,very complicated and time consuming) I started the project of building my own solar panel. I would like to invite anyone who has some experience with this or is interested in it ,to give me any advice or remarks about it. The main challenge is to build a panel that can withstand heat, cold, rain and hail for many years.

Buying My First Solar Cells

In October 2008 I bought my first 100 cells via Ebay. But as I later learned, they were still very expensive: 300 Euros for 100 cells, including shipping. I was told they should produce 1,98 Watt each. Below a picture :

The First Solar Cells

After some experimenting and very long brainstorming about how to continue, I found another seller on Ebay who had the same cells (of which he gave the specification that they were 1,75 Wp each……) But these were slightly damaged.

Well I decided to buy 500 cells ,a mix of 3 different qualities. The seller had not counted these cells but there were 620 cells, of which after a first selection , just over 500 were reasonably good. Not a bad deal to start with. And a lot cheaper! Also now I had over 100 cells for practice on soldering and handling.

The 620 Cells.

Building the First Small Panel.

Well I got started. Beginning with the soldering-technique, that takes some practice, but after a while you get the hang of it. And now my first small experimental panel is ready! The main focus and moreover challenge is to get the cells 100% sealed: air and water tight. The cheapest solution for me is to make a double-glass construction. And the cells in between the 2 plates of glass. The panel is made of 12 cells, each 0.55 Volts. On the picture below you can see many purple coloured wires. Those wires are each connected in between each cell so afterwards I can still do some measurements to compare each separate cell.

My First Do-it-yourself Solar Panel

The First Measurements in the Sun

I must say that at first I was worried whether I would see the cells really produce the power they should. But after building a variable resistance (making it possible for me to roughly find the maximum power point) the sun at last was shining (not much sunshine here beginning of February) and I got my first real measurement : 15,5 Watt. According to the specifications the panel should give a maximum of 12 x 1,75 W = 21 Wp.

Given the fact that the glass takes away about 10% of the power,without the glass it would have been about 17 Watt. I expect that during summer as the sun rises much higher above the horizon, the measurement will give higher readings , thus coming closer to the specifications…. I am using normal 4 mm (0.16 inch) glass because it costs me nothing. If you just look around near places were they renovate old houses you can get the old glass for free…… This compared to the real stuff they use for solarpanels which is quite expensive and probably very difficult to find.

Influence of Heating the Panel in the Sun.

During the first measurements, I found that the heating up of the panel was pretty strong. But this especially was the case for the backside. were the cells are glued upon (using the same kit I used for glueing and sealing the panel). This panel is 12 mm (0.47 inch) thick : 2 plates of glass each 4 mm (0.16 inch) and 4 mm in between. What troubles me is the temperature-difference between the front and backplate of glass. This will result in different expansions creating stress on the sealing,if that is repeated too often it will start leaking. Now I am using the same kit as is being used in solar panel factories. But it still worries me. A solution can be to keep the panels small, so the difference in expansion stays minimal.

Improvements

A solution to the temperature-problem can also be to make the gap between the 2 plates of glass smaller. So the heat will be more evenly dissipated to both the front and backside ( thereby also creating more cooling capacity). My next panel (picture below) is the same size,the difference is the distance between the 2 plates of glass : it is now 1.5 mm (0.059 inch) …..and this also makes the sealing a lot easier and thereby better. I have used pieces of copper winding wire that I happened to have : 1.2 mm (0.047 inch) thick. I took several pieces of about 3 cm and spread them evenly along the side on the glass backplate. Then the kit along them all around the full edge. And finally pressed the front plate on it. The result is a gap between the plates somewhere between 1.2 mm and 1.5 mm. So on the inside, there is some trapped air (with, of course, a certain amount of humidity in it), which can potentially cause condensation. But my hope is that the amount of that is so small (only very small amount of air……) that it will not be a factor…… ( In the first panel I did put some stuff that can “eat” the condensation. I got this out of old double glass that I separated,the stuff is inside the aluminium strips between the double glass edges)

The Improved Panel

The kit will have to dry for a few days, but anyhow the weather forecast does not indicate any sunshine the coming days………

First Results

Bottom line is that if the output of each cell really hits 1,75 Wp then I can come to a price of Euro 1,20 per Wp (or even lower than that….) And with such a price the panel will not have to last for 20 years……..but off course that is my aim ! That will be the main challenge ! But I must say with this second panel my hopes are getting higher.

You can find more (and more up to date) information on my website

Well, who feels like building panels also ? Or give me some advice, or share experience. I do not mind getting negative critics because they might be correct………and they are there to be solved !

Next Phase

Update: 15 februari 2010:

The first systeem of 400Wp is now fully functional and produced it’s first electricity. The cost price is now around $1.68 per Wp and is expected to drop to $1.10. More information about the next phase in the project can be read in the article Built Solarpanel Installation Now Operational.

Solar Cell 6x6 .5V 8+ amps

(Excerpt for eBay ad 11/31/09; link updated for 6×6 solar cell 3/11/10)

this is for 36 solar cells limited time

thinking about 3×6 cells? why? this is the future of solar power 16% eff.+

these are the cells every one has been waiting for, 6x6in. .5v 8+ amps the data sheet is in this ad, this is a5 day only breakout sale after this the price of solar is going up, there may or may not be small corner chips all this dose not effect the output of these fantastic cells, this is 16% efficiently the stuff everyone including you are talking and reading about hoping to get some here they are, are you sitting down

(Continued below)

oh ya we have the 3×6 cells that we made so popular in this market place at the best price you can find these cells are not broken or cracked they are what they are as in the ad

Free Power

Free power isn’t totally free you will need to invest in equipment; but the power you make will be free. You have a large advantage over power companies when you make free power at home. No delivery charge. 

Power companies collect power or convert it then deliver it. They divide the cost of investment over 30 to 50 years and charge you for the investment and delivery amortized over time. 

What is the delivery cost if you make your own power (Zilch, zero, nothing)? If you hire a contractor to install energy devices at your home the cost will not be much cheaper than the Power Company. Your payback period will be as high as 25 years, not much better than the Power Company’s payback period. 

The rules change when you make your own power with a do-it-yourself (DIY) approach. No delivery charge, no contractor cost and investment payback period is usually under 5 years. 

Here are seven reasons to make DIY homemade power:

 
1.) Free power is everywhere. You just need to collect it. 

 
2.) Collecting free power is easy with solar, wind, and solar hot water systems. 

 
3.) Free power investment is cheap for DIY. DIY projects can be 1/10 the cost of commercial and payback is 5-10 times faster, usually under 5 years. 

 
4.) The governments encourage free power collection. The government will pay you. In the USA the tax credit is 30% up to $2000 for solar electric and solar hot water and up to $4,000 for small wind turbine. That is not much for commercial investment of $20,000 to $80,000; but this is a lot for DIY projects of $100 to $6,000. 

 
5.) Free power is green. The more you collect the less the power company pollutes our planet. That makes a greener planet for our future and the kids’ future. 

 
6.) Do-it-yourself guides that make free power projects easy and low cost are cheap. Projects are a $100 – $200 investment. Multiple projects can get you off the grid completely. 

 
7.) Remote sites like a vacation home or cabin, hunting lodge, campsites can be powered by these free power projects, no gas generator and no kerosene. 

Solar Panels

This Is What It Looks Like

Solar panels are a collection of solar cells, soldered together into a system. The cells can be purchase on eBay for about $50 per 100 watts of power. You assemble the cells in to 70 – 175 watt panels. Installing the panels is a matter of some brackets and wire. Solar panel installation is much more flexible and portable than wind turbines. 

Solar panels produce 18+ volts in to a battery charge controller. The controller fills deep cycle batteries with the power during the day. Power can be generated most days, even with clouds. 

 The limitation of solar panels is the sun. It’s up only half the day. A power inverter converts the battery’s power to household power for your normal use, day or night. Building several panels can achieve 1000+ watts of power. 

Small Wind Turbine

DIY Wind Turbine

Wind turbine is not for everyone. You need an open space, not because they are too large but because the wind flows better in the open. You need a minimum of 10+ M.P.H. wind speed with 20+ M.P.H. being ideal. An advantage to wind turbines is the wind can blow all day to produce power day or night. Another consideration is the wind turbine needs to be on a tower. 

The taller the better, in the 20 – 60 foot range. This usually requires local zoning permits. If these are not a problem you will get twice the power out of a wind turbine than for the same investment in solar panels. The break-even point is $400. More than that, the wind turbine is less costly to build for the same power output. 

You can easily get 450 watts to 1,000 watts from one DIY homemade turbine. Like the Solar Panel description above, you store the energy in deep cycle batteries and use an inverter to make household power, day or night. 

Solar Hot Water

Solar Hot Water

The power required for a home hot water heater is about 30% of the household energy budget. The solar hot water can easily cut that in half. Solar hot water uses the greenhouse effect. 

Build a box with a glass cover and some pipes and you can get hot water in the range of 120 – 130 degrees Fahrenheit winter and summer. Feed this hot water into you hot water heater for storage and the hot water heater will shut down, no power consumption. The hot water heater will only run when a boost is required like washing clothes. The construction is cheap and easy. 

Solar Air Heater

Solar Air Heater

Think about it. Free heat for the garage, basement or out-building. No wires not power costs. Supplement your house heater with free heat from the sun for as little as $30 in parts. 

Assuming you have most of the common parts around your garage, then yes you can. Even if it costs you a little more, its a fun “DIY Project” for the weekend.  

Geothermal Heat Pumps

Geothermal typical System

Geothermal heating and cooling technology provides exceptional performance and the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) agrees that a geothermal heat pump is the most energy-efficient, environmentally clean, and most cost-effective space conditioning system available. 

    Today’s best geothermal systems outperform the best gas technology, gas heat pumps, by an average of 36% in heating mode and 43% in cooling mode! 

       You can save 25-50% on home electric bills compared to conventional heating and cooling systems. Imagine what you could do with the extra money in your wallet! 

The Reason for Guides

Do you want to know how to do these projects, what materials to buy, how big or small to make things? Get a DIY guide is the answer. For under $50 you can get a step-by-step guide, a plan and in some cases where needed you get a video tutorial. 

Which guide is best? Where do you get the guide. Go to www.ResidentialEnergykit.com for help.